Chromatic Repair
I have a 280 Chromonica which I took apart to clean. I can't seem to get the mouth plate back on tightly. I had Hohner send me some new clear bushings that go into the comb that the screws screw into - but they just don't tighten. The screws just spin and spin, but never tighten which leaves the mouth plate, slide and comb cover loose. There appears to be no damge to the comb or the screws. Hohner wants $150 dollars for an overhaul since it is no longer under warranty and I am not willing to spend that kind of money as everything else on the harp is fine. Any ideas on how to fix this problem?
I asked David and he suggested I might have the wrong bolts, but all parts are original and in the right place.
Well now I know why they call you "Expert" Winslow Yerxa. Obviously it is not your playing ability or transcription of Blues Traveler "Four", but your knowledge of chromatic engineering. Five minutes after reading your post, the 280 was back up and running. I was putting the screws in above the nut. After shinning a light in the hole, I could see that the nuts were down a bit from center. There was no sign of any plug (just a brass nut) and when I shake the harp there is something small rattling around in there, which I image must be the plugs??? Any thoughts on how to get them out?
Thanks for the help.
All the best,
Todd
I have a 64 Chromatic that I bought about 5 years ago that just recently started buzzing slightly in the middle range. I would like to try cleaning the harp to see if this will clear it up, but I would like to get some advice on the best method, difficulty etc. It sounds like a plastic bag is sitting against some of the reeds and I want to be careful not to damage anything in disassembly. Help! Thanks, Tom
It sounds like there is indeed plastic buzzing against the reeds. It's the plastic "windsaver" valves that keep air directed only to the reed you're playing. Chromatics need these because they have so many leak points due to their large reedplate size - with more surface contact between reedplates and comb - and the multi-layer mouthpiece/slide sandwich.
If you unscrew the top and bottom covers by undoing the bolts at either end, you'll see the exposed reedplates. The brass draw reeds will alternate with white or white/brown plastic strips about the same length and width of the neighboring reeds. These valves are positioned over the reedplate slots for the blow reeds, which are mounted on the opposite side of the reedplate, inside the harmonica. (Inside the harp, there are also valves mounted on the draw reed slots.
When you hear the buzzing sound, it means something is not quite right with one of the valves in the hole you're playing. The valve may be twisted or curled, or it may simply be a little sticky from stuff that was in your saliva - sugar, oils, starch, grease, salt, etc.
Most valves have two layers. The lower layer that contacts the reedplate is flexible and pliant, to help seal it against the reedplate when its job is to direct air elsewhere. But it has a stiffer upper layer as well, that helps the reed spring back when it is blown away from the reedplate when its job is to get out of the way. The two layers may be the same color (usually white) , or the upper layer may be clear or brown.
The valve should lie flat against the reedplate. If it doesn't, the first thing to try is to separate the two layers. If they're stuck together, they may have frozen into some twisted shape. Try to find the front end edge of the upper layer and nudge it gently (or try to insert something thin under it). Once it separates from the lower layer, the valve may return to lying flat against the reedplate. But once the layers get wet, they may stick together again unless you clean the valve.
Likewise, if the valve is sticking to the reedplate, it may prevent the note from sounding because no air can move past the reed through the slot. Or it may stick at first, and then pop off the plate, giving a delayed but sudden response. Again, cleaning is called for.
Sometimes a valve is simply deformed or keeps buzzing even if you clean it. Then it's time to replace the valve. Major manufacturers and various harp techs sell valves in different lengths to fit the various sizes of reed slots.
When a valve causes a note to buzz or stick, you need to figure out which valve is the culprit. It may be on the top or bottom reedplate, and it may be the outside valve, or the inside valve (which will require you to remove the reedplate).
First, locate the note on the reedplate. Is it a slide-out note, or a slide-in note? With the slide in the appropriate position, go to the hole, and then observe whether the opening inside the mouthpiece hole is on the upper or lower half of the hole. This will tell you whether the affected note is the upper or lower reedplate. If the note is a blow note, then reed will be on the inner-facing side of the reedplate. If it's a draw note, the reed will be on the outside of the reedplate. The valve for that reed will be on the opposite side of the reedplate. However, the problem may be caused by either of the two valves in that hole.
Now, it's time to understand how valves affect air flow.
When you exhale into a hole, you breath affect both valves:
-- It presses the inside valve against the draw slot, so that all the air goes to the blow reed.
-- It pushes past the blow reed (setting it vibrating) and also lifts the outside valve away from the reedplate so that it doesn't interfere with the vibration of the blow reed.
When you inhale air from a hole, you get the same effects on the opposite valves.Your breath:
-- Pulls the outside valve against the blow slot so that all the air is directed to the draw reed.
-- Pulls the inside valve away from the reedplate so so that it doesn't interfere with the vibration of the draw reed.
If the reed doesn't sound, or pops into action after a short hesitation, the culprit is the valve mounted against the reed you're trying to play:
-- inside valve for the draw reed
--outside valve for the blow reed.
The valve is sticking to the reedplate and needs cleaning.
If the note buzzes or rattles or sounds an extra note an octave lower, this could be the layers sticking together, or it could be a deformed valve that needs to be replaced. The problem could come from either valve but is most likely to be the valve mounted on the slot of the reed you're playing.
So how do you clean a valve?
You need to clean two places:
-- between the bottom of the valve and the surface of the reedplate (prevents sticking and popping),
-- and between the two layers of the valve (prevents unwanted noises).
What about tools and materials? You can make them easily from available stuff.
First, make some cleaning strips. Take a brown paper bag made of sturdy, thick paper It sounds like there is indeed plastic buzzing against the reeds. It's the plastic "windsaver" valves that keep air directed only to the reed you're playing. Chromatics need these because they have so many leak points due to their large reedplate size - with more surface contact between reedplates and comb - and the multi-layer mouthpiece/slide sandwich.
If you unscrew the top and bottom covers by undoing the bolts at either end, you'll see the exposed reedplates. The brass draw reeds will alternate with white or white/brown plastic strips about the same length and width of the neighboring reeds. These valves are positioned over the reedplate slots for the blow reeds, which are mounted on the opposite side of the reedplate, ins the harmonica. (Inside the harp, their are also valves ousted on the draw reed slots.
When you hear the buzzing sound, it means something is not quite right with one of the valves in the hole you're playing. The valve may be twisted or curled, or it may simply be a little sticky from stuff that was in your saliva - sugar, oils, starch, grease, salt, etc.
Most valves have two layers. The lower layer that contacts the reedplate is flexible and pliant, to help seal it against the reedplate when its job is to direct air elsewhere. But it has a stiffer upper layer as well, that helps the reed spring back when it is blown away from the reedplate when its job is to get out of the way. The two layers may be the same color(usually white) , or the upper layer may be clear or brown.
The valve should lie flat against the reedplate. If it doesn't, the first thing to try is to separate the two layers. If they're stuck together, they may have frozen into some twisted shape. Try to find the front end edge of the upper player and nudge it gently (or try to insert something thin under it). Once it separates from the lower layer, the valve may return to lying flat against the reedplate. But once the layers get wet, they may stick together again unless you clean the valve.
Likewise, if the valve is sticking to the reedplate, it may prevent the note from sounding because no air can move past the reed through the slot.Again, cleaning is called for.
Sometimes a valve is simply deformed or keeps buzzing even if you clean it. Then it's time to replace the valve. Major manufacturers and various harp techs sell valves in different lengths to fit the various sizes of reed slots. More on that later.
When a valve causes a note to buzz or stick, you need to figure out which valve is the culprit. It may be on the top or bottom reedplate, and it may be the outside valve, or the snide valve (which will require you to remove the reedplate).
First, locate the note on the reedplate. Is it a slide-pit note, or a slide-n note? With the slide in the appropriate position, go to the hole and note whether the slide opening inside the mouth piece is on the upper or lower half of the hole, which will tell you whether it's the upper or lower reedplate.
Now, it's time to understand how valves affect air flow.
When you exhale into a hole, you breath affect both valves:
-- It presses the inside valve against the draw slot, so that all the air goes to the blow reed.
-- It pushes past the blow reed (setting it vibrating) and also lifts the outside valve away from the reedplate so that it doesn't interfere with the vibration of the blow reed.
When you inhale air from a hole, you get the same effects on the opposite valves.Your breath:
-- Pulls the outside valve against the blow slot so that all the air is directed to the draw reed.
-- Pulls the inside valve away from the reedplate so so that it doesn't interfere with the vibration of the draw reed.
If the reed doesn't sound, or pops into action after a short hesitation, the culprit is the valve mounted against the reed you're trying to play:
-- inside valve for the draw reed
--outside valve for the blow reed.
The valve is sticking to the reedplate and needs cleaning.
If the note buzzes or rattles or sounds an extra note an octave lower, this could be the layers sticking together, or it could be a deformed valve that needs to be replaced.
So how do you clean a valve?
You need to clean two places:
-- between the bottom of the valve and the surface of the reedplate (prevents sticking and popping),
-- and between the two layers of the valve (prevents unwanted noises).
What about tools and materials? You can make them easily from available stuff.
First, make some cleaning strips. Take a brown paper bag made of sturdy, thick paper with a fairly rough surface (such as a grocery bag), and cut it into strips about three inches (8 cm) long and sightly wider that a valve.
The only other thing you need is a drop of water.
Moisten the tip of a cleaning strip in water - not too much; it should not drip. Tap off any excess liquid before beginning.
Now, slide the moistened tip under the valve, between the valve and the reedplate until it stops. Apply gentle finger pressure to the top of the valve along its length, and pull the strip out along the length of the valve. The moisture and rough paper surface, together with the mild pressure, will clean the mating surfaces.
Time for the next step, but first, an important tip: Never re-use the tip of the strip -it's now dirty. Either turn the strip around and use the other end, or tear off the part you've already used.
Now you can clean between the two layers of the valve, just as you did between the valve and the reedplate.
This is getting too long and I'm on an airplane having to close the laptop and get up every time my seatmates need to get out. I hope this helps.
By "clear bushings" do you mean the little plastic sleeves that you slip over the screws? These are called bumpers and they have no effect on tightening the screws. They exist just to keep the slide from damaging the screw threads when they bump against the screws (and also help dampen any clicking sound). Hence the term "bumpers."
If the mouthpiece screws won't tighten it's because the nuts that receive them are either stripped or missing.
Each mouthpiece screw is tightened by threading into a little square nut that is embedded in the comb. On the modern 280 comb these are inserted into a void in the underside of the comb.
To see where they go, hold the comb with the long chambers on the right and the front of the comb (where the mouthpiece goes) facing toward you. Now follow the line of the screw hole back about a quarter of an inch and you'll see a rectangular slit parallel with the front of the comb that lines up with the screw hole, and another similar slit right beside it.
The slit that aligns with the screw hole should have something filling it, a form-fitting plug of a color similar to the comb. This plug keeps the nut from falling out. If the plug is gone, you might see the brass-colored nut. If the nut is gone, then you need new nuts and plugs. You can get these from the Hohner service department. Call them up and explain what you need. They should be able to provide these for a small fee.
By the way, let me advise you of standard terms for some of the parts you described. It may make it easier for you to communicate with Hohner.
The part that your mouth touches is the MOUTHPIECE.
The metal plate that is laid directly on the front of the comb is the BACKING PLATE.
Hope this helps.
Winslow