Two Half-Valving Strategies for Diatonic Harmonicas
Hello Harp Techs, recently I received a request to build a Paddy Tuned, half valved Hohner Rocket harmonica. Unusual, but definitely doable.
But why would anyone want one?
The benefits of Paddy Tuned (raise the 3 Blow one whole step, i.e. G to A) were convincingly laid out in a recent blog[1]. Being able to play the A as a normal note (read: perfect pitch) and confidently bend the draw 3 down to Bb is a beautiful thing.
The benefit of a half-valved diatonic harmonica is that you will be able to add seven (eight with Paddy tuning) bendable notes to your diatonic harmonica that were not available prior to valving. Popularized by P.T.Gazell [2] and Brendan Power. Installing valves (aka windsavers) on the inside of the DRAW reed plate; slots #1,2,3,4,5,6,7 and outside BLOW reed plate; slots #(7pwr)8,9,10 will affect 10 reeds of a 20 reed diatonic harmonica--hence the name, “half valving”.
Many diatonic harmonica players understand that the phenomenon of “bending” requires both the Blow reed and Draw reed in the same slot--sort of a symbiotic dance. Here, the number of ½ steps available between the Blow/Draw reeds will determine those notes that can be conjured up by the Player. For example, on hole #3, the Blow reed is G and the Draw reed is B. The first ½ step=Ab, the second ½ step=A, and the third ½ step=Bb. Absolutely AMAZING!
Half valved harmonicas are different…
Sure, you can still play your favorite notes by utilizing your hard earned bending techniques (the exception being overblowing technique), however, bending a reed that has been “isolated” (single reed) by a valve that turns off the opposite reed, will require a slight paradigm shift in your thinking and playing. You will only be able to produce a note ½ step lower than the isolated reed (i.e. Eb can be played with an E reed). In my mind, I see and hear someone creating music on a saw[5]--bending the steel into different arcs produces different pitches as the bow vibrates the saw.
The seven available notes on a Richter tuned, half-valved diatonic C harmonica are:
BLOW #1/B, #2/Eb,#5/Eb, #6/Gb(F#)
On the DRAW bends: #7/Bb, #8/Db(C#),#10/Ab
I thought it would be fun to have a shoot-out between two popular valving solutions: Brendan Power Gasket Valve and Don Makowski’s glue-free valves (windsavers). The Hohner Rocket in the key of C shipped directly to me from the supplier. After sprinkling Harpsmith dust on this harmonica, the next step was to install the Power Gasket/Valves, evaluate the playability, then swap out the Gasket/Valves with the Makowski valves and evaluate the harmonica.
Top right gasket is for the Blow reed plate that will be installed underneath the plate. Shown in the middle is the small valve set that will adhere to the top of the Blow reed plate. The bottom is a view of the combination Gasket/Valve that will be mounted onto the draw comb side (inside the assembled harmonica).
The valves will close off the first seven Draw reeds as the Player produces the Blow Bend
Here is a view of the Power Gasket/Valve[3] temporarily held in place onto the inside of the Draw reed plate. There are no valves over draw reeds; #8,9,10 because on the standard Richter tuned Diatonic harmonica, the draw notes are lower in pitch than it’s “same slot” Blow reed.
Next contestant will be the Makowski Glue-Free Valve[4] (aka Windsaver)
All reed slots to the left of the reed wrench tool will be installed with individual valves onto this Draw reed plate
The overall pad measures 1/4" and the sticky portion is about ⅛”
Measuring from the edge of the slot, ⅛” is dead center with the rivet
Tear off the valve from the sheet
Peel away the protective layer
For me, the best method was to apply the valves horizontally--allowing me to keep the valve taught, straight and parallel to the reed slot
Using a wall paper seamer tool, gently roll over the adhesive (pressing with fingers tend to shift the axis of the valve)
Carefully slide and line up the bottom blade of your scissor against the front wall of the reed slot, then close the top blade and you should get a perfectly sized valve.
Here are the seven valves securely attached to the inside of the Draw reed plate.
On the top side of the Blow reed plate, only three valves will be installed; #8,9,10
Installing these three valves will enable the Player to draw bend;
#8/Db(C#), #10/Ab. There is no draw bend available on #9, but now you can really spice up that song with a strong vibrato on the F.
So which valve set won the shoot-out?
Both contestants did very well; however, the top podium spot goes to the Makowski Glue-Free Valve (Windsaver).
Considerations:
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If you consider yourself handy tinkering with small things, I would recommend the Makowski valves
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If not--or you just can’t find the time--I would recommend the Power Gasket/Valves
Are you curious about the half-valved harmonica, but you’re not certain if you want to spend the money? My recommendation is to set up one of your regular harmonicas as a “mock-up” half-valved harmonica (C would be best for this lesson). This way you can test drive the half-valved harmonica without spending any money ;o)
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Remove the cover plates of your harmonica and expose the Draw reeds.
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Next, apply a small strip of Painters Blue tape to temporarily immobilize draw reeds #1,2,3,4,5,6,7
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Re-attach the cover plates
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BLOW bend the following reeds and play:
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#1/B, #2/Eb, #5/Eb, #6/Gb(F#)
If you were not able to produce any of the notes, but found it challenging--then build yourself a half-valved harmonica. If you did not find this exercise illuminating, then CAREFULLY peel off (from back to front) the tape and re-attach the cover plates. Oh well.
If you were able to produce the notes, then you gotta build yourself a half-valved harmonica!
Your Harpsmith, Kinya
References:
1 https://www.bluesharmonica.com/paddy_tuned_hohner_low_f_rocket_harmonica
2 https://www.bluesharmonica.com/pt_gazell_interview
3 https://www.bluesharmonica.com/power_gasket_valves
4 https://www.bluesharmonica.com/sometimes_sequel_better_premier
5 https://youtu.be/B2sfiZmzgJc
