Astatic Model 30
I have acquired a "dead" Model 30 that I would like to resuscitate with a CM element. As you know, the mic is "hard-wired." The hole that the cable passes through is just a tiny bit too large to tap for a screw-on connector. I think I can "press fit" and set-screw the connector without having to drill the hole out.(?)
But, if one were to be dedicated to screwing in the screw-on, is there a method of "filling and drilling" that works best in this situation - that is within reach of the DIYer?
Thanks for sharing. Really appreciate you being here!
My "Model 30" is not actually the biscuit style. It looks just like a JT-30, but the grill is not chrome, and the "point" of the bullet might be slightly pointier. The whole thing is painted brown (original, I think).
The label has "30" stamped on the tag under "Model"
But your good advice still fits the situation. I think I'll have to give the 2501 MP a littl push to get the collar seated, but that's a good thing, right?
Thanks!
Hey Marcos,
You've pointed out a source of some 'ASTATIC' cross-pollinated confusion here: The ASTATIC nomenclature '30' can refer to more than one model microphone, some being not so similar. The earlier '30' is the one I refer to as the "BISCUIT", bigger diameter and shallower body. There are also the '30' models that look like the better known JT's but are labeled "W30" or simply have '30' imprinted on their metal badges -like yours. Some have chrome-plated grills, some (like yours) are all brown, some have a 'wrinkle' finish. Many of these are hardwired, unlike the 'JT' models which are fitted with the 5/8" thread-on connector.
MIC MORSEL: Yep, they're all good (and relatively easy) candidates for a thread-on retrofit, often not even needing to be reamed to accommodate the 3/8" base of the Thread-on connector...
Howdy Marcos,
The ASTATIC Model '30' "Biscuit" has a cable channel that's larger than its JT-30 brethren's and it will accommodate the Switchcraft 2501MP and Amphenol MC-1 thread-on connectors without modification. The serrated collar at the bottom of the connector's threaded sleeve sometimes will fit without forcing a "press-fit", and either way the set-screw should be sufficient to hold it in place.
As for "filling and drilling", it ain't necessary. As for threading the over-sized hole: Speaking of 'sleeves', if you can find metal tubing stock (brass) that's a tight but force-able fit into the '30's cable channel (I don't have the dimensions handy), you could seat it with the set-screw present and then tap it with the appropriate thread (3/8"X32 or 3/8"X24) for the chosen connector. Seat it with about 1/8" relief from the channel's lip and you'll get no interference from the connector's serrations when you thread it in.