edit lost hole on C chromatic

OK, further to my other post.

If the outside valve on Hole 3 is not stuck then you can test for free vibration of the reed. Insert your reed poker through the front of Hole 3 and use it to press the tip of the blow reed up through the reedplate. Insert a shim to hold the reed in place. Then remove it to let the reed vibrate. If you have debris, this may help dislodge it. Either way, you can hear whether or not the reed vibrates freely.

If the reed doesn't vibrate freely, it might be about to fail. But let's assume that's not the case. Then the problem may be debris (easy fix) or reed misalignment (fussy but not impossible).

Both these fixes require removing the outside valve, to allow unobstructed access to the reed edges and to avoid damaging the valve. Get something stiff under the valve al the way up to where it's glued, and gently peel it off without stretching or curling the valve. Later you can scrape the glue off the reedplate and re-apply the valve with a tiny dab of glue, careful positioning to cover the slot, and some finger pressure for a few seconds to help the glue take effect.

If pressing the reed through the slot and releasing it didn't remove debris, then you need to run something thin and stiff along the edge of the reed from base to tip. The thin steel foil that's inside retail anti-theft tags is excellent. Aluminum foil is the right thin-ness but not stiff enough the slice through burrs or displace lodged junk.

If the reed seems to grind when you press it through the slot, it's misaligned and needs to be rotates slightly on its rivet. This is a simple procedure but fussy to get right. To do it easily and with precision, you need to pry up the nailed -down reedplate. The non-invasive but clumsier way to rotate the reed is to remove the valve, then insert something thin and stiff between the edge of the reed and the slot on the side that is grinding, and nudge it a **tiny** amount in the other direction.