Feeler gauge measurements
Hi, Kinya.
I'm really enjoying your videos on tuning and gapping. You make things very clear, leaving only my lack of patience and fine motor control between me and the perfect harp!
I do notice one problem in the videos, though. When you speak of the feeler gauge sizes, you call the .002 size "Two hundred thousandths." But .002 is actually "Two thousandths"
Two "hundred-thousandths" would be .00002.
Two hundred "thousandths" would be .2 (same as two "tenths").
Now I have a headache.
Speaking of feeler gauges......I apologize if this questions has already been answered somewhere else.
In your Harp Tuner videos, you use a brass feeler gauge as a reed lifter/stabilizer while working on reeds. What thickness of gauge do you recommend for this process? I've seen .002 discussed in the forum, but it appears the brass gauge you're using is much thicker.
I think I saw a photo of your brass gauge that showed the size, but I haven't been able to find that photo again.
Thanks,
RobL
You have a good eye Rob,
This tool started out as a "reed support" tool from a Lee Oskar tool kit, that I had formed into a bullet shaped (Thanx Peter H!) tip, then polished/sanded it to a knife edge.
Of course, this tool was originally manufactured as a feeler gauge with a thickness measuring:
.017" in
1/64" in
.46mm
Your Harpsmith,
Kinya
To add to this thread, I have very limited exposure to assembly and disassembly of my harps but I love anything that comes apart. Improve and back together.
Having a little trouble with my new G blues Harp that sounds to airy with more effort required in the bottom 3 holes draw and blow. I have feeler gauges from 1.5 up to 25 thousandths.
My question: is there a recommended or average gap to aim for as a good starting point and does that differ from key to key. A chart would be most handy. What I find mostly is trial and error methods and it feels to me it should be a bit more technical than random trying.
Thanks
John
Hi John, How have you been?
Many factors goes into setting the gap clearance of a reed:
- Has the reed slots been sized (embossed?)
- Has the "zero point" of the back of the reed been set?
- If this is a pre-2012 Blues Harp, has the comb been sealed?
- Start with .007" (0.18mm)
- Are you using a tongue or lip blocking embouchure?
- At the end of the day, gapping all comes down to personal preference.
Your Harpsmith, Kinya
Hi Kinya,
To start I have been awseome and having so much fun learning. Only question is why didn't I start this Harmonica journey 25 years ago?
1. The reed slots have not been 'embossed' or sized. It is still mostly out of the box except now of course with my tinkering added.
2. The zero point has not been set at the back of the reed by me and Ill have to have a bit of faith in the factory at this early tinkering phase.
3. The comb is not a sealed comb to my knowledge or that I can see. Although I just purchased it. I did purchase a Marine Band Deluxe in D for that sealed comb reason as well as it is screwed together allowing easier dissassembly and reassembly. (I really really hate the nails in the 1896 marine band). I find the Deluxe a very nice instrument that will play nicely as my abilities increase and I can take advantage of it. In the case of the G Blues Harp I purchased an equal replacement mostly to have spare part options. (invaluable I have found already)
4. Analyzing the gaps as it was set at the factory I had .009 in hole 10 steadly increasing to a whopping .021 by the time I got to Hole 1. In my opinion that is the reason the bottom holes were so very airy and required a lot of air to sound. Bending was a challenge. I initally set the 8-10 at .006 and 7-4 at .007 and went to .008 for 1-3.
I purchased small clamps as you demonstrated and that made the whole process fun as I tested the adjustments. Now the whole harp will play with just a whisper of breathe. Bending is immediate and fun with better control than I have felt on any other harp. I know I can work on it more and get it just perfect for me now but that will take time and a lot more experimentation. One issue I have is 7 draw wants to bend squeak and choke if I use a slight hump in the tongue as like bending the 6 hole. It feels like I may be into overdraw territoy that I am way not ready for. But also it seems to show me that I need to be more accurate in my embouchure in the upper register in general.
5. Successfully, I now tongue block almost everything. The one hole I experiment with using that nice safe wood on the left for the tongue to find and get the 1 draw. Thats a bit of a challenge but doable. As long as I am tongue blocking I can manage the 7 draw with not too much of an issue. I just have to watch the tendency to want to bend as I have been working on that a lot and tounge/mouth/throat muscles seem to want to do things without thinking after training them.
6. After probably years of experimenting and having success and failure, I will likely find my personal preferences in setting the Harmonica. For now I appreciate you steering me in the right direction as I now have a new working Harp rather than 2 questionable G Harps.
Watching the videos as you describe and show how to go about working on the Harp is invaluable and such an asset to the learning curve. So thank you for sharing your knowledge and I will keep learning as I go.
Hi jgwilks, my apologies for the delay in my response.
My goodness, you have been busy! Your report tells me you are on the correct trajectory of developing your skills as a Harp Tech and player--good for you.
You wrote: As long as I am tongue blocking I can manage the 7 draw with not too much of an issue. I just have to watch the tendency to want to bend as I have been working on that a lot and tounge/mouth/throat muscles seem to want to do things without thinking after training them.
HS: remember the pitches that live in the seven hole are a natural half step (semi tone) apart from each other, and therefore; can not be draw bent--unless you are attempting the overdraw note, which will be one semi-tone "above" the blow reed pitch.
Will I see you at the HMW in April?
Your Harpsmith, Kinya
Unfortunately I will not be attending in April.
Back to the 7 draw, I feel a bit if fine adjustment and a round of further documentation is required to have the Harp playing smoothly as my technique allows me.
I am not really attempting the over draw at this point but thanks for clarifying the half step concept. Internalisinag the notes, bends and steps is quite a process but it's slowly happening.
I just love experimenting with it. Now that I have a desk mounted, lighted magnifier I can actually see all that you describe.
Can you please give me a link to amazon to buy filler gauge approporate for reed gaping ?
Thanks
Wow. Too many choices came up when I searched: "Automotive Feeler Gauges", but Amazon recommends:
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25025-Blade-Master-Feeler/dp/B000BYGIR4/...
Hey, for $5.89 you can't go wrong. Remember, you're only going to need .001" through .007"
Your Harpsmith, Kinya
Placed my order . Thanks
Sweet!
Your Harpsmith, Kinya
Busted! You are correct Marcos.
.002" = two thousandths of an inch (or .0508 millimeters)
Now my head hurts.
~Kinya