Harp Tuner tips
From the Work Bench of: Dick Sjöberg’s Master Harp
Harp Tuner Components: The Harp Tuner is available in two versions:
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Hohner (7.5mm reed distance)
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For tuning Hohner Special 20 Harmonicas (#560) a supplemental gasket will be included with your order
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For Suzuki and Lee Oskar harmonicas order the Hohner Harp Tuner model
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Seydel (8.0mm reed distance)
A single piece GASKET has been fabricated for both Hohner and Seydel. When a Hohner Harp Tuner is ordered, for example, your Harp Tuner will be mounted with the Hohner slots positioned to face you. In the event you wish to tune a Seydel, simply lift the index pins from their holes to release the gasket from the Hohner position. Next, rotate the gasket 180° and fasten the two index pins in the middle of the gasket. Now the Harp Tuner will facilitate tuning Seydel reed plates.
Please note that Seydel reed plates—on a Hohner specified Harp Tuner—will not line up precisely with the corresponding slider valves located at the lower and higher reeds. The gasket was designed to accommodate this issue, so the tuning process will not be impacted. Seydel Harp Tuner users will experience the same phenomenon when tuning Hohner reed plates.
CERAMIC FILES: Market name, “Super Stone” is available in various abrasive grits; including:
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180g (rough and fast tuning)
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400g
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600g
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800g
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1200g (fine and precise tuning)
GUIDE (index) PINS Holes are pre-drilled through the gasket and top surface of the Harp Tuner. Make certain the pins are pushed all the way through the gasket and firmly positioned into the holes of the Harp Tuner. This will insure an air tight fit of both the gasket and reed plate.
BLACK SLIDER VALVES: There are two black slider valves. One located to the left of the white No. 1/10 slider valve, and the other located to the right of the white No. 10/1 slider valve. Both black slider valves connected directly to the vacuum chamber and affect all reeds at the same time. Its air intake is in the back of the slider when pulled out.
The functions of the black slider valves are to emulate a person who can regulate suction pressure by opening their nasal passages at the same as mouth breathing.
To understand this concept, it is helpful to imagine a vacuum cleaner with the slider valve located directly on the vacuum tube. When the suction pressure is too high and the carpet is being pulled into the vacuum cleaner nozzle, opening the slider valve will decrease the suction at the nozzle and release the carpet. All the while, allowing the vacuum cleaner to continue to move a large volume of air.
PROCEDURE: The best tuning results will be achieved when you tune the reference note at least 3 times—always allowing the reference reed to rest a few minutes before the next tuning session. This is CRUCIAL, in order to achieve our goal of tuning all the remaining reeds with “no beats”.
With the reed plate in position:
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Pull out one of the black slider valves
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Place the mouthpiece of the suction tube inside the side of your mouth. While using as much “stable and convincing” diaphragmatic (belly breathing as opposed to chest breathing) suction pressure as possible (it helps to visualize an accordion bellow). This will allow as much airflow as possible to pass over the reed.
Lower tuned harmonicas (denoted with the prefix “L”) are considered “heavy weights”, due to the weighted reeds. They will not tolerate excessive suction pressure. Too much suction pressure will cause the reed to fluctuate and your chromatic tuner will reveal a faulty reading. For lower tuned harmonicas, leave at least one black slider valve open during the tuning process.
Remember–we ALWAYS strive for tuning our reeds in pair– with our reference tone against the reed we want to tune. When setting up our reference notes in the middle register, one by one, we want at least one black slider to be open. Here the function of the black slider valve is to relieve the suction pressure on reed #1 (both blow and draw reed plates).
Hi Kinya,
i must say, your video series sold me on the tuner. Nice presentation.
John contacted me and let me know he has already shipped my order. I'm impressed. I was expecting a couple month wait.
all the best
Dave
Hi Kinya,
With the 'harp tuner', I find I need to play each reed on the harp and write down the pitch relative to whatever calibration I am using on my guitar tuner. Then when I fit the plates on the harp tuner, I need to play them again and note it down.
by doing this I am able to tune the reed on the table and add or subtract however many cents I need to predict how it will play on the harp with covers fitted.
i had expected there would be a consistent difference, but I find there really isn't. Some reeds will be sharper on the tuning table than on the harp, but some will be flatter. I found the idea of tuning to a reference reed doesn't really work. On a Sp20 I tuned yesterday the 1 draw reed was 8 cents sharper on the table than on the harp, but 4 draw was 10 cents flatter. If I tune them to play nice together on the table, they sound terrible on the harp.
do you think I'm doing something wrong? I still find the device to be very handy for tuning, just not quite what I had expected.
Hi Kinya, thank you for the offer. I'd love to do that.
I'm in Australia, so the timing maybe difficult?
my email is kingloud@me.com
thanks,
dave
Thanks cobber ;) I'll look forward to your email
Davo
Hi Kinya. Thanks for that session, it was very helpful. And great to meet you.
i finished tuning the harp we were working on and it came up quite well. the very highest reeds (it was a D sp20) needed revisiting as they were rather sharp, but chambers 1 -8 were good.
last weekend my workshop time was spent in changing over a couple of marine bands to aftermarket combs. I had a Lo Eb which I hoped I may have been able to make a little easier to play. I sanded the draw plate and found it seemed deformed around the rivet of slot 1. I was sure I'd be able to catch that low bend more easily after sanding the dimple away, ...it kept me busy at least
to recap a little regarding the tuner, we set my guitar tuner to 443Hz and tuned the 4 blow reed. Then we tuned the 1 blow against 4 blow, checking for beating and sometimes checking against the guitar tuner for confirmation. When those two were in tune, we moved to 7 blow, referencing 4 blow. You demonstrated the idea of tuning 'past the edge' and then returning the reed to be in tune with the reference reed. We did the same for 10 blow.
We did similarly for the other reeds, using reed 5 as the reference for 2 and 8, and reed 6 as reference for 3 and 9. We tuned to a compromise just scheme. I think the third was about 8 cents flat. We checked how the chords sounded.
We did much the same with the draw plate, using 4 as a reference reed. I've forgotten whether we tuned 7 to 3 or 3 to 7. Does it matter?
oh boy, I just placed my order. Nervously paid in advance...