Hohner Quality
Mon, 02/15/2010 - 06:58
Every now and then, I see some thread on a site complaining about Hohner quality - particularly how it's declined over the years. A "G" Special 20 harp I have that is very leaky around the 2 & 3 blow reeds got me wonderin' about this as well. I'm thinking on upgrading my harp selection this year - possibly with the Crossover.
What is your opinion on Hohner quality these days? Are there particular Hohner harps that are better quality than others?
Hohner quality seems decent and in many ways much better than it has been at some points in the past.
Bear in mind that Americans love to complain and that Hohner got a bad reputation in the 1980s and '90s when they really did let quality slide big-time - the company was being run by accountants with no clue about musical instruments at the time. They got a bad reputation that at the time they deserved. Even they no longer deserve that reputation, it continues to stick, and any time anyone is in the least displeased with Hohner, all the usual litany of complaints gets trotted out.
Individuals instruments can vary even within a model such as the Special 20. While the problem *might* be a warped comb, it's just as likely to be a few things you can fix fairly easily, such as:
-- screws that have shaken loose
-- misaligned reedplates on the comb
-- reed profiles set too high
To rectify the first two problems, you need two small screwdriver, one with a straight-slot blade to remove the coverplate screws, and one with a Philips or Pozidriv head to loosen the reedplate screws.
First, remove the covers and set the screws and nuts somewhere safe, like in the lid of a small jar.
Then, unscrew each of the reedplate screws by 5 or 6 turns of each screw. You don't need to remove the screws, just loosen them quite a bit.
Then, make sure the reedplates are pushed all the way to the front of the "fence" at the front of the comb (front being where the holes are). The Special 20 comb does this pretty well all by itself because of the wraparound fence.
Now find the screw that is closest to the center point between the right and left ends of the harmonica.
First, tighten that screw, but only until it resists the tips of your fingers on the handle of the screwdriver (finger tight). That said, new screw holes sometimes resist because the thread in the hole wasn't completely cut and you may have to finish the job - the screws in these harmonica cut their own thread in the bottom reedplate.
Then, work you way outward from the center, either all eft or all right, or alternating, as long as you don't skip over any screws. The idea is you don't want to leave a "wrinkle in the rug."
Once you have the reedplates tightened, clap the covers on and try playing the harp. If it seems tighter and less breathy, you're good to go.
However, holes 2 and 3 may have been gapped high in the factory to prevent problems from new players sucking too hard. If you still find those holes requiring too much air, you can lower the gaps a bit.
Look at the reed gaps in neighboring reeds. Longer reeds always have larger gaps than smaller reeds, but the change in gaps as you move up or down the reedplate should be fairly smooth. If the gaps for Holes 2 and 3 look disproportionately high, here's a a way to lower them gently.
using something thin but not sharp, gently press the tip of the reed through its slot to the other side of the reedplate. Now, take it in your fingers (hold the reedplate with the other hand, and ***GENTLY*** tug on the tip of the reed. Release it and let it spring back. Plink the reed a few times - lift the tip above the reedplate a few millimeters and release it to let it vibrate.
Once you've done all this, look at the gap. Is it a bit lower? If sol. try assembling the reedplates and covers to the comb without screws, and try playing it. (Or screw it together to get a more accurate test).
By the way, check both blow and draw reeds and make any adjustments to reed gaps that you feel might be helpful.