Reed replacement - what is going wrong ?
Hello Kinya,
I'm trying to replace a reed but I’ve not been able to drill a pilot hole properly. Once the hole is done and the screw is inserted, I can tighten it to the bottom, but then, once it’s there, it doesn’t grip, it just spins loosely.
I have used the Micro-Mark referenced material in your list. I’ve double checked everything and it matches. Also obviously I’ve double checked I wasn’t using the clearance drill bit instead of the tap drill bit.
I’ve tried three times, one on the actual reed plate I was trying to replace a reed from, and twice on the donor reed plate (which I should have done first), with the same result every time.
Any idea about what could be going wrong?
Thank you!
Thank you Kinya.
What do you mean when you say that the reed plate is stripped?
I re-read your original post and did not read that you used a 0-80 TAP to make the threads. It appears:
- you used the fastener (machine screw) to cut the threads into the reed plate and not a TAP. This will be OK if you are using "self tap" screws
- check to see that the threads of your fasteners have threads that meet up all the way to the bottom of the head of the fastener. If not, there will not be enough threads to make purchase into the reed plate. To rectify this problem, use 0-80 washers (spacers).
Let me know
Your HARPSMITH, Kinya
Hi Miggy, here are the study videos I filmed for reed replacement methods. Specifically review:
https://www.bluesharmonica.com/harpsmith_bench
- Episode 9B (0-80 method)
- Episode 9E (00-90 method)
Your HARPSMITH, Kinya
Yes indeed, I missed one step and tried to tighten the fastener to an "unthreaded" hole. But I don't think I did anything meaningful to the hole with the fastener as you suggest, I think it went down too smoothly for that. Is it possible that I damaged the hole and thus I won't be able to use the tap to make the threads on it anymore ? It feels very loose now how the fastener sits in it, I can move it up and down almost without spinning it.
Anyways, I'm going to order that missing tap and give it a try. And I'm going to watch your new videos.
Right. Review the videos before you order anything.
If you are working on a BLOW reed plate, then you can simply tighten a nut onto the exposed threads of the fastener. This will NOT be an option for the DRAW reed plate.
Your HARPSMITH, Kinya
Yes I think a nut is the best option right now. It's a draw plate though, but from a Special20. The head of the fastener fits into the comb. Maybe the nut wouldn't? You do it with the head of the fastener against the reed (actually with a washer in between). Do you think it's possible to do it the other way around?
By your question, it appears you did not get an opportunity to review Episode 9E (00-90 method). It will change your life ;o)
Your HARPSMITH, Kinya
Actually I did have that opportunity! It looks great, but I'd like to use what I already have if possible. If I can stick to 0-80 fasteners, I would only have to order 0-80 nuts, unless you really advise against it. So I'm wondering why it wouldn't work on a Special20 as there seems to be enough room in the comb.
Hi Miggy, yes you are correct--it will work with the Special 20.
Caution: there is very little room between the rivet and the back of the comb slot for DRAW Reed #1. You may have to notch the comb to clear the head of your fastener. All other reeds are OK.
Your HARPSMITH, Kinya
Ok great, thank you for the heads up. It's not a 1 draw though. It's a... #5! And two #4s. So it's 3 harps I'm hopefully going to bring back to life! Can't wait!
Good luck!
Your HARPSMITH, Kinya
Hey Miggy, what's the good word?
Your HARPSMITH, Kinya
Hey Kinya, thank you so much for checking up on me. I haven't received the material yet, should be there soon though, last time it took about 2 weeks if I remember well. I'll keep you posted!
Awesome.
Conversations like this are extremely helpful to our members. You presented a (common) problem with the reed replacement process that others in similar situations, can now relax with the knowledge that there are viable (work-a-round) solutions.
Your HARPSMITH, Kinya
It works! This is great! Probably as big a euphoria moment as my first bend. I'm really glad to be able to rebuild harps using spare parts and not having to throw away perfectly operable stuff.
Actually quite easy to do using nuts, I guess we can worry a bit less about precision when drilling the hole. Makes it easier when one doesn't have stationary tools. Still have to be very careful and organized though because it's very easy to make mistakes like mixing up reeds, plates and so on.
So I used 0-80 on the Special 20s but I'll keep in mind that I'll have to use 00-90 and countersinking on other harps.
Well done Sir!
Now is the time to stock up on Fasteners and Small Tools from MicroMark. Their summer sale is on!
Your HARPSMITH, Kinya
Hey Miggy, the short answer--it's stripped. Possibly the fastener, but most likely the reed plate is stripped. Bummer, but I have a solution for you.
Keep in mind, there is so little metal to work with (.94mm), so unless you have steady hands like a surgeon, I would recommend investing into a Drill/Tap fixture:
https://www.micromark.com/MicroLux-Tapping-Fixture_2
This tool will ensure that your holes will be true without the unintended distortion of the hole. Another suggestion would be to use a smaller pilot drill. Keep your drill bit and tap lubricated (Blade Butter by Bench Basics works great). Don't forget to make certain the reed plate (rivet hole) was not distorted. Both mating surfaces; the reed pad and reed plate have to be absolutely FLAT!
From 1998 through last year, I used 0-80 fasteners for my reed replacements
Today, I use M1.4 machine screws (super small). Brought to my attention by the Suzuki Tech.
To rectify the problem you are now faced with, I would recommend you disregard the 0-80 method all together and instead use 00-90 x 1/8" Flat Head machine screws, washers and nuts.
This will be weird at first, because the entire process will be upside down from the 0-80 tap method.
Your HARPSMITH, Kinya
p.s. if I'm not mistaken, Joe Filisko continues to use the 00-90 strategy for his reed replacements