Steel reeds harder to play as steel is harder than brass?
I bought a Seydel 1847 and a Seydel session Steel and for both of them I have the feeling that I have to use more ‘pressure’ to get out the tones. I think the reed gaps are ok. None get stuck and no tone comes late like with a too big gap. Is it possible that it just feels heavier because steel is harder than brass and therefore harder to move or is it indeed a gapping problem?
Winslow, I do like the sound and the smooth reed responseof the Seydel Noble 1847 but I dont like the pressure needed to start the reed motion. In other words the bend control is much better withe Sydels out of the box with almost all of my harps. Ive been trying different models of Harmonics and have acquired a set of Custom Marine Band Deluxe s in the past couple of years and I keep reaching for them and have become used to the dementions and the combs including the flat face and smaller holes. On the other hand I think the Sydel whould be the one I would play if they played at easier pressures. I tryed the Sydels to see if I could play out of the box but I think at the present time I need to have them worked on and see what Happens. Is there someone in the states that work on Sydel Noble 1847s that will just work on the reed and reed plates? Thanks for your thought
Greg Jones is a Seydel authorized tech who does much of their repair work, so he'd be the go-to guy.
His website: https://www.1623customharmonicas.com
IIll contact him.
Ok
Hello Winslow,
I am very new to Harmonica (3 months) but love playing everyday. I got your Blues for Dummies and its been very helpful. I have a Crossover and a Progressive. I would like to try other brands and get something that will last forever as far a toughness but also want something I wont need to upgrade (to better model) as I improve. I am particulary intersted in trying the Manji and Seydel Silver as the supposedly last a long time and are good out of the box. Do you find that to be true, or would they require customizing? Also, for a starter are these to models too much for me at this point as far as difficulty in learning on?
How are your present harps holding up? if youre not destroying them (something that beginners are often assured that they likely will do until they learn good technique), then maybe you're ready to try some different models. I like both the 1847 and the Manji, and own several of both, along with a wide mix of brands and models.
But your mileage may vary. The only way to know for sure is to try them, preferably in either the same key as ones you own, or a key very clsoe in pitch so that you can have a good basis for comparison.
By the way, no harp lasts forever - at least that's not something you can depend on. Reeds fatigue and break. Think of them like guitar strings, which also need replacement from time to time. Reeds break far less often on good instrument played with good technique, but it still can happen.
Thanks for the feedback. Buying in the same or similar key was very helpful. Both the Sp20 and Crossover are holding up well so far. Ill probably be getting one of each depending on size of the harmonicas. Which leads me to my next question.
I am 6'9" tall and like the Corssover but it is small compared to the SP20 and I have to find ways of holding to fit my hands. Any thoughts on models/brands that would work with larger hands? If they are similar or larger than the Sp20 i think they would work.
lastly, Do you know of any sites I could use to find local instructors? There is obviously a lot of online courses but I wiould rather have an in person teacher if possible. Looking at local Music shops and Guitar Centers I have found no instructors and the store assitants look at me like like they have never heard of a harmonica before when I ask them.
In my view this site with Davids instruction (assisted by the other experts) and material is far and above the best teaching option for learning the harp. Why, quality of tuition, cost, flexibility, structured lessons, progress feedback second to none and able to use extensive resources on the site. You can progress at your own pace and that a plus. I could go on but I would opt for this site over any personal trainer. That's just my take on it.
I find the Suzuki Manji a very ergonomically comfortable harp plus all the other desirable attributes.
Thanks John! It's great to get from experienced players like yourself.
The only tihng that makes the Special 20 bigger than the Crossover is the extra ring of plastic "lip" around the reedplate, as the reedplates are sunk into the comb. This adds maybe 1mm each to the front, back and sides of the harp.
Seydel harmonicas are slightly longer than other makes because their reeds are spaced farther apart. But I'm not sure the small difference in size that results would be significant for your purposes.
Some of the greatest harp players had huge hands and played the Marine Band. I'm thinking of Howlin' Wolf, Big Walter Horton, and Rice Miller (Sonny Boy Williamson II). The ability to cup the entire harmonica in your hands gives you a lot of power to shape and color tone.
Look at video of these players and note how they held the harp. You might find some useful tips.
One thing that I might suggest is to rest the left end of the harp on the webbing between your forefinger and thumb. This helps present more of the front surface of he harp for your mouth, instead of burying it between your fingers.
I teach a lot by Skype and Facetime, but if you want to have face-to-face lessons, try lessons.com and takelessons.com.
Lessons.com is a simple referral service, whie takelessons does more than connect teachers and students. They handle billing and even provide an online classrom space. I use both.
My feeling from playing the 1847 in Bb (the one I have, though I think I have a G somewhere) is that it's not very different from my customized Marine Band (brass reeds) or my East Top Bb (phosphor bronze).
Steel is harder than brass, and also stiffer. Looking up the mdoulus of elasticity for various brasses and for stainless steel, brasses have a stiffness of around 100, while stainless is nearly twice that (i.e., stiffer). That said, Seydel took this into account in their reed designs. Also, I've played Seydel steel-reeded chromatics and find that they play pretty much the same as brass and phosphor bronze reeded chromatics.
Gapping? Why not check? And while you're at it, make sure the reedplate and cover screws are tightened optimally - "finger tight" as they say, tighten to the point where the screwdriver resists finger pressure.
Side note: Suzuki makes several models of harmonicas using phosphor bronze reeds. Most play similarly to brass-reeded instruments. But the Mani, their sort-of Marine Band equivalent, has a much more resistant feel that many players have remarked upon. It plays just fine, just feels different. So evidently it's more than just materials that can make a difference in the feel of how a harmonica responds.