Posted Mon, 02/21/2011 - 07:34 by Harp Tech Kinya...
Numerous people from our harmonica community has asked for my thoughts of the new Harrison B-Radical harmonica. Check out the whole dealeo at: http://harmonicasessions.com/?p=138
I recently bought a set of replacement reed plates for a M.B DX and found it difficult to start the self tapping screws into the draw plate holes when assembling the comb and new plates ( to the point of turning out the Philips heads!) I used the Hohner Philips screwdriver but I'm not even certain that I tapped them into the plate square. Any tips for getting these started easier, could you pre tap them somehow ?
Kind Regards Dave
by the way I'm really enjoying the Harp tech study videos
I want to build a harp tech work area with good lighting but am not sure the spot I'll use now (for the first six months) will be my final workplace. Is there lighting you can recommend other than the E-conolight luminaires that is good, but would be less permanent?
Posted Sun, 02/13/2011 - 12:35 by Harp Tech Kinya...
Wow--if only I had a nickel for every time someone brought their harmonica(s) to me with "It only happens on the Band Stand! attached to it. "Nothing came out of that hole ... the reed locked up ... the reed went flat", and so forth.
Almost without exception, there are logical explanations for what caused those frustrating moments. Are there ghosts in your machine? What say ye readers. Is it a harmonica or player issue?
reed plates appear even on the comb, however, when playing the corners feel sharp. How do you smooth the end near the first hole of the reed plate? Also, I put my cover plates on some new bamboo combs and a few cover plates have a hair line crack allowing air, how to fix this problem? Thanks
I started to ask a question about compromised tuning verses just tuning - which would be the pick(or current pick) for mostly 2nd position blues playing, but began to read the questions and answers. So many people had issues with their harps that I began to question whether most of what was being asked was actually that significant for the vast majority of people who want to play. If it is the case that every time I pick up a harp I need worry about the 3 hole half step being a little flat,etc, etc, I think the fun will be over. continue reading...
I'm from Brazil, so i'll start apologizing for some writing errors that might happen.
I'm having some problems setting the 2 hole draw gap, either open or closed, i hear a lot of air when i draw, the only thing that changes is the strength needed to make the reed work.
It's recommended to apply the embossing, or any technique on the draw reeds to had a better response?
Posted Sun, 01/09/2011 - 10:09 by Harp Tech Kinya...
Hey there Harp-Techs,
For those of you who have just completed the sizing (embossing) process on your reed plates with plastic SP20 type combs, be mindful not to over tighten the reed plate screws! This will cause the reed slots to bow microscopically inwards and touch your reeds as it passes through the slot--resulting in that annoying clickety-clack sound when you play (if it plays at all).
I have two C harps (Sp20). One is very easy to tongue block blow bend the 10 blow. The other is very difficult. What reed characteristics make one easy and the other difficult? What do I need to change on the difficult reed?
Hi, Kinya!
My Special 20 in A gives me some trouble. I noticed that while playing the learning songs from the site with the provided jam tracks the harmonica sounds way out of tuning at some parts of the track. My little investigation showed that blows 1 through 4 are the problematic holes. For example 4 blow is 449-440 Hz according to phone's tuner.
3 blow sounds awfully out of tune as well, no matter how strong or soft it's blown. continue reading...