Posted Sat, 06/12/2010 - 08:21 by Harp Tech Kinya...
I have been asked numerous times over the years for my recommendations on the best sealant to use on pearwood combs (MB1896). Not including my fooling around period using bees wax (what a mess that was!), my response was always "Flecto's Diamond Sheen" in the spray can. Last year, however, Teri D. from my HMW '09 workshop found the ZINSSER Bulls Eye Shellac, also in a spray can -- recommended for Hobbies, Crafts, Toys, etc. This appears to be a safer replacement ...
Hi,
I have been using a Vintage CONN ST-11 strobotuner. Its looks like it may need repair, so I was looking at new models. What is your opinion of the new Stroboflip from Peterson.
What is better to use for tuning harps, the old mechanical tuner or the new digital stuff?
In this issue of the Mel Bay's Harmonica Sessions, you discuss the Marine Band 1896, Marine Band Deluxe and the Marine Band Crossover. I noticed you state that the Crossover is tuned to Equal 12 TET tuning. I think that's a little incorrect. I'm under the impression from Steve Bakers post on Harp L, http://www.harp-l.org/pipermail/harp-l/2009-October/msg00517.html that the Crossover is tuned to a Compromised Just which is closer to ET but still JI (approx 19 Limit JI I believe). Was the Crossover you had closer to ET still I wonder? continue reading...
Posted Sun, 05/30/2010 - 08:41 by Harp Tech Kinya...
I recently received the most unexpected gift -- a Suzuki G-48 chromatic. Yeah, the Harpsmith has terrific, caring friends ;o)
The owner's manual recommended applying oil (#SHO-01) to both sides of the slide and spring holes. When I was a boy, I played numerous band instruments that required oil. Those instruments did not have reed valves, however.
Hey Winslow, and Chro players any thoughts on this recommendation from Suzuki?
When replacing reeds, what size drill bit should I use to widen the opening in the reed and what size for predrilling the reedplate prior to using the tap bit?
Posted Tue, 05/25/2010 - 20:38 by Anne Marie Jackson
Are Seydel's harder to play? I just bought one and thought the $80 harp was going to be a good experience over the usual special 20s, which I have found often have a rattle. Alas, no such luck: I can only draw a pitch on the 3 intermittently, otherwise it's just plain air or a squeak. Are these harps harder to draw on, or might I have a defective one?
Dear Kinya,
I watched Davids demo on the chromatic tuner and realized I was only watching the note and note paying particular attention to the needle being centered. Then using my Korg LCA-120 I checked my Suzuki Promaster and found that the first 5 holes were playing flat both blow and draw, the ones i use most...(-20? whatever that means)..all Key of A.
I checked my brand new Manji and Firebreath and they were in the middle .. more or less.
What does it mean when your harp goes flat?
Should i just throw it out?
How long is the average life of a harp.. continue reading...
Hi Kinya,
I have followed your articles on repair, modification and tuning and I am a big fan.
I have enjoyed some success myself at adjusting reed profile and gap on my harps to get the responsiveness I prefer. However, I know there is much more I could be doing with the profile and I would appreciate being pointed in the right direction.
Could you provide some advice on some of the finer points of reed profile to help me take responsiveness and bending ease to the next level?